Indiana Jones Backbox Removal and Installation
This web page is designed to assist those of you who need to remove and re-install your Indiana Jones backbox.
When I moved into a house in early 2001 we discovered that the door into the basement was too narrow for the machine without removing the backbox. I quickly removed the backbox without any thought to building this web page. As I prepare to re-install the backbox, I've decided to create this web page to help any of you who need to remove your backbox to fit through narrow doorways.
Disclaimer: This web page only explains the steps that I did to remove and install my backbox. If you choose to do this, please do it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for your machine if you do something wrong and destroy something. If you make a mistake, I'll be happy to help you through it over email. The primary reason that I wrote this web page is to help those of you who wish to do this yourself and not pay an experienced technician to do the job for you.
I would like to extend a special thanks to Mike H. for helping me move my IJ into my basement. He's a fellow Indiana Jones owner who lives in the same city as me! J
This section is written from memory. I did not write down what I did but here's the basic idea of what I did. It took about 15 mintues for me to remove my backbox.
This installation process will be written as I actually install my backbox. Much like the "shop-out" web pages. If you follow along, step by step, you shouldn't have any trouble.
Well, I got my machine into the basement and here is how it now looks…
I have to admit, I was able to do this by myself. You must be VERY CAREFUL to not scratch the side of your cabinet. You might want to remove the metal brackets on the bottom. I took my time and did not scratch my cabinet with those metal brackets. Here are the photos of the process of me installing the backbox and trying to take photos at the same time.
Now we'll install these carriage bolts and hex nuts.
Push a carriage bolt into each side, here's a photo of the right side carriage bolt installation.
Now we'll install the hex nuts on the inside of the cabinet and screw them into the carriage bolts previously installed. Be sure to do these steps to both sides, I'm only showing photos of the right side, but I did both sides in this step.
Look down in the main cabinet and make sure that the left bundle is on the left and the right is on the right. On mine, the two were twisted around and I had to untwist them. It's important to check this now because you can't untwist the bundles when the connectors are all installed!!
I noticed that there was a wire bundle that's connected to one of the wire bundles. This wire bundle connects at a single molex and it has a bunch of wires on it, you should have something similar.
I happen to have new zip-ties so I installed new ties to help hold the two wire bundles to the backbox, I installed them were the old zip ties were installed securing the 2 wire bundles to the backbox base. During the connector installation, I discovered that it may have been a better idea to install these zip ties later when the connectors are all installed so that the proper amount of wire can be pulled up through the bundle. The zip tie restricts the amount of wire that can be pulled up from the main cabinet.
Here are the connectors that I marked as having no connector (based on manual pages 3-22, 3-28 through 3-34)
Power driver board
The flipper board, sound board and dot-matrix controller board, and 8-driver board in upper right corner of the backbox are all depicted as having every connector used.
I am choosing to install the wires one board at a time. While doing this it is important to manage the wires properly so they don't get twisted. Try to arrange them so they flow around the backbox in a straight and untwisted fashion.
Based on pages 3-22, 3-28 through 3-34 from the manual, I will install every connector listed for every board. The manual lists the colors for every wire for every connector. In addition, the connectors are "keyed" so that it is difficult to install them incorrectly unless they have connectors keyed the same. The "key" is a blocked hole in the connector which doesn't allow it to plug into the wrong connector since a pin cannot go through the blocked hole.
With the keyed connectors plus the wire color chart listed in the manual, this process shouldn't go wrong. I am going to follow up EVERY connector installation with a small wire re-seat with the tip of a small screwdriver (except for the small connectors which won't allow this such as the connectors at the bottom of the CPU board). Hopefully this will save me any headaches from loose wires that may have wiggled out during the transportation and all of this moving around that I've been doing with the wire bundles.
I will find it necessary to unplug some of the ribbon cables and then re-plugging them in order to route the wire paths up to the upper boards. This is especially true for the ribbon cable that goes from the CPU board to the power driver board. The wire path needs to go under that ribbon.
I am not going to list on this web page the color codes for every connector and even the order of the different connectors that I plug in. What I'll do is plug in the connectors one at a time in the order listed in the manual. If I come across something that may confuse people I'll be sure to make a note of it where applicable. If you do not have the manual, I can send you a scan of the pages that I used during this process. They are invaluable for this and I couldn't imagine doing this without them.
THE POWER DRIVER BOARD
I'll start with the biggest board first. I plugged in every connector as listed in the manual pages 3-32 through 3-34. All colors and pins used in the manual match a connector in the wire bundles.
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When I got done with the connectors on the power driver board, here are the abnormalities that I encountered which may puzzle you as well:
THE CPU BOARD AND REMAINING BOARDS
Similarly with the power driver board, I'll just connect all of the remaining connectors the way that they are listed in the manual, I'll connect the remaining boards in the following order:
Dot matrix controller board
8-driver board (upper right corner)
Finished with CPU board…
Finished with Flipper board… Note while connecting the flipper board I also connected the replay solenoid right up there.
Finished with remaining boards.
When all of the boards are connected you might have an extra connector hanging. This probably goes to the dot matrix display on the speaker panel.
When all of the connectors are installed be sure to double check ALL ribbon connectors and make sure you didn't mis-plug them so that only 1 row of pins was connected. This is very important.
When they are all done, you might want to try to guide the wires in the plastic clips and make it look neat. I have to face the realization that it will never look like factory and am not going to put a lot of energy into making them look nice, just as long as there is no excess strain on any of the connectors and they are all seated good. Perhaps later when I have some free time I will re-wire the backbox so the wires are more snug and neat.
If you're sure that it's all good then hit the power switch. Be absolutely sure. One wrong wire and you could damage your expensive boards due to a mis-wire. This is my disclaimer at this point that you really need to be sure and recheck all connectors.
I have to admit, when I first powered it up, a ribbon connector was not fully seated and the machine did not power up. After I turned it off, reseated the connector, it powered up!!
Be sure to test out the machine fully. You can either play some games to see if anything is wrong, or exercise all of the tests in the test menu.
Don't forget things like the coin door lights and switches and the German plane blinky lights.
It all set! Thanks for reading, I hope this web page has helped guide you down the right path!! This is some coincidence, I did not plan on the dot matrix display showing the same image in both photos!
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